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INTRODUCTION
Hi, I’m Rudy Maxa. Picture a landscape so
extraordinarily beautiful that it takes even experienced travelers by
surprise. A place where you can scale mountains in the morning, sea kayak
in the afternoon and still savor a gourmet meal at night. Next up, it’s New
Zealand’s North Island on Smart Travels.
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The Polynesian people named it the “Land of the
Long White Cloud”…a spectacular country molded by cataclysmic events and
veiled in mystery. For centuries, New Zealand was completely isolated from
other landmasses. It evolved plant and animal species found nowhere else on
earth. It’s a place that inspires reverence in natives and visitors alike –
a reverence for the land and this country’s ancient roots.
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It’s hard to believe that so much scenic
loveliness can be concentrated into such a small country. New Zealand is
about the size of Britain, yet it has an amazingly diverse climate that
ranges from glacial to temperate to tropical. This trip we’re veering off
the tourist track into the rural reaches of New Zealand’s North Island.
New Zealand in located in the southern Pacific
more than 1200 miles from the mainland of Australia. After landing in
Auckland, we’ll head to the breathtaking Bay of Islands, and the towns of
Paihia and Russell. Then we’ll travel south to the pasturelands of Hawke’s
Bay.
Most travelers to New Zealand arrive by air,
landing here at Auckland’s international airport. Our flight from North
America took about 12 hours. But it was worth it!
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New Zealanders, nicknamed “Kiwis”, are proud of
Auckland, their biggest city. It’s green, clean and sophisticated. But I
haven’t come to New Zealand for city sights. I’m off in search of this
country’s best scenic beauty.
We’re traveling to the Northland, a part of New
Zealand that’s rich in Maori and European history. We arrive in Paihia, a
scenic tourist town and gateway to the area known as the Bay of Islands.
Some of the county’s most glorious coastline can be found right here. This
maritime area encompasses more than 140 Islands abundant with fish and
wildlife.
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KAYAKING TRIP
First on my list of activities is a kayaking
trip. There's no better way to enjoy the Bay of Islands sub-tropical
coastline than by sea kayak. It was in the northern part of the country that
New Zealand’s earliest settlers first landed. Eastern Polynesian
immigrants, whose descendants are known as the Maori, arrived here about
1000 years ago.
It’s impossible not to linger at the
spectacular Haruru Falls. Haruru means “big noise” and the water here
cascades over the cliff in an unusual horseshoe shape. According to Maori
legend, a water monster lives in the lagoon below the falls.
Many species of flightless birds once thrived
in New Zealand because they had no natural predators. The Maori made the
most of this easy prey and hunted several bird species to near extinction.
The islanders then turned to fishing and agriculture.
A Dutch explorer named Abel Tasman was the
first European to arrive in New Zealand. But it wasn’t until the legendary
Brit, Captain James Cook, landed in the North Island in 1769 that Europeans
began coming in droves. Whalers, traders, missionaries – they descending on
the islands. New Zealand became a colony of the British Empire in 1840.
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WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS
We’re stopping by New Zealand’s most historic
site. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds are often referred to as the “Birthplace
of the Nation.”
It was here that a famous treaty was signed
between Maori chiefs and Britain. The explosion of European immigration to
New Zealand meant that some kind of policy was needed for land deals. With
the Treaty of Waitangi, the Maori chiefs accepted British presence in
exchange for protection and guaranteed ownership of their land.
But because of language differences, the Maori
almost certainly didn’t understand the treaty’s fine print, which gave great
advantage to the Brits. Fighting quickly broke out between the natives and
the new settlers. To this day, the treaty has been blamed for unrest
between Maori and Pakeha (the name given to Europeans settlers and their
descendants). These grounds are considered a spiritual site by the Maori
people, and certain protocols must be observed when visiting here. This
challenge ceremony was traditionally performed to determine whether or not
visitors came in peace.
You can explore the Treaty grounds by yourself
or take a guided tour departing daily from the Visitors Center.
The Meeting House contains carvings that trace
the genealogy of different tribes, and holds important symbols from Maori
culture.
In the evening, a live show about Maori history
takes place in the Meeting House The story
begins with the great migration: a long ocean journey from eastern Polynesia
to New Zealand. The islanders bring with them a rich culture which, over
time and in isolation, becomes uniquely Maori. Frequent intertribal warfare
punctuates daily life. Eventually the ancient Maori traditions collide with
European settlement.
Today, the Maori people still represent about a
third of the population here in the Northland.
TIP For show information:
www.culturenorth.co.nz.
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RUSSEL
A little car ferry at the port of Opua will
take us across the water to Russell. It’s obvious that this is boater’s
paradise – the bay is filled with motorboats, sailboats, and yachts of every
description.
With its charming waterfront walkway and timber
houses, the town of Russell is a pleasure to stroll. It’s hard to believe
that this was once known as “the hell hole of the Pacific”.
It started out as a quiet Maori village, but as
Europeans began pouring into the North Island, Russell evolved into a
lawless frontier town. Rife with ship deserters and ex-convicts, it became
infamous for prostitution, gun fights and street brawls.
Russell’s reputation might have been played up
a bit by local missionaries hoping to get a little extra support from Mother
England. But the town certainly included some unsavory characters. An early
British surveyor reported that this was 'a vile hole, full of impudent,
half-drunken people'. These days, though, it’s an attractive fishing town
with a tempting selection of restaurants, shops and galleries. It makes a
good base for exploring the area.
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KAURI FOREST
A short drive takes us away from town to the
primeval majesty of a kauri forest. The kauri is the largest species of
tree in New Zealand. At one time, these giant trees covered the island. The
size and strength of kauri timber made it a popular wood for construction
and shipbuilding, particularly for masts of sailing ships.
Until the 1940’s, a profitable industry that
exploited kauri gum severely damaged the trees here. New Zealand’s forests
are still trying to recover.
The flora of New Zealand has a distinctive look
because it evolved in isolation for millions of years. More than
three-quarters of the native plants and trees grow here and nowhere else.
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CHELWOOD OYSTER FARM
New Zealand is heavily dependent on farming and
horticulture, and tempts visitors with a range of gourmet delicacies. The
Bay of Islands in particular is known as a top oyster farming location.
And as a devoted mollusk fan, I can’t wait to
get my fill! Here at Chelwood Oyster Farm, we learned a bit about how
oysters are grown and harvested. Orongo Bay oysters are recognized as top
class and are exported around the world.
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ORONGO BAY HOMESTEAD
We’ll have our oysters served up in style at
the Orongo Bay Homestead. Enjoying a commanding view over grand lawns and
bay waters, this historic residence was built in the 1860s for the first
American Consular Agent in New Zealand.
Now the restored Homestead is an exclusive
country inn offering fine wine and renowned cuisine.
Many kiwis are embracing a movement toward organic food and green
living, and the herbs and garnishes served here are grown right on the
property.
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VOYAGE TO CAPE BRETT
LIGHTHOUSE
To work off all that food, a day trip to the
Cape Brett Lighthouse is just the thing. For those who like a challenge,
you can make the journey on foot, an invigorating 8 hour hike. Or you can
take an easier route (like us), and make part of the trip by water.
We climb aboard Kiwi EcoTours for the voyage to
Cape Brett. Our guide welcomes us with a traditional Maori prayer.
This rugged stretch of coastline is situated at
the entrance to the Bay of Islands. The seven distinctive peaks that mark
the peninsula's spine are said to represent the seven canoes that carried
the Maori settlers on their great migration to New Zealand. A place of wild
beauty, the coastline is sculpted with dramatic rock formations, including
the famous “Hole in the rock”. Nearby “Cathedral Cave” lives up to its name
with a grand interior and colorful rock walls.
A short but steep hike takes you to the Cape
Brett lighthouse. When British Captain James Cook first arrived here, he
christened the spot in honor of a lord of the admiralty, Sir Piercy Brett.
Later, it was the site
of one of New Zealand’s early shipwrecks. A British crew contracted with
local Maori to load a schooner. The crew then double-crossed the Maori,
throwing them overboard. But the sailors got their comeuppance. The ship
encountered bad weather, and those who didn’t drown were killed by the
Maori.
The Bay of Islands is so gorgeous and relaxing,
I could stay forever. But, as they say here in New Zealand, I better
rattle my dags. It’s time to get moving to our next destination.
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HAWKE'S BAY
We’re off to Hawke’s Bay, located on the
central east coast of the North Island.
This area is fondly
known as the "Fruit bowl of New Zealand". It rolls out a royal carpet of
pastureland, orchards and vineyards. Acres upon acres of park-like
farmland are rimmed by dramatic sea cliffs and coastal bays. The area’s
known for its Mediterranean-like climate; sunny, dry and ideal for vacation
getaways.
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NAPIER
Sitting handsomely
on the bay, the town of Napier is a blast from the Art Deco past. Back in
1931, a horrific earthquake devastated this city, destroying most of the
buildings.
So what did the
people here do? Picked themselves up, brushed themselves off and set about
rebuilding. In style.
As it happened, Art
Deco architecture was the fashion of the day. Local Art Deco expert and
all-around character “Bertie” is wealth of information about Napier.
Art Deco’s
future-looking style appealed to the idealism and escapism of the 1930’s
depression era.
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ON YER BIKE WINERY TOURS
This is wine country. And I think the best way
to tour the area’s many vineyards is by bicycle. You can spend the day
sampling some the Hawke Bay’s finest food and wines, all while getting an
upclose look at olive groves, ostrich farms and country inns.
For help with a self-guided tour, “On Yer Bike
Winery Tours" offers three routes catering to all fitness levels. You can
visit up to six different wineries using the maps provided.
NGATARAWA WINERY
We’re stopping at the Ngatarawa winery to
sample the area’s famous chardonnay.
With its warm
weather and gravelly soil, the area’s been dubbed the ‘Tuscany of the South
Pacific’.
TIP
For a copy of the Hawke's Bay Regional Winery Guide,
visit
www.hawkesbaynz.com.
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FOOD TRAIL
If you’re not into wine, another fun activity
is the self-guided Food Trail. Armed with this local map, you can visit
various producers in the region. The popular trail leads to dozens fresh,
local specialties.
Each food trail destination is well-marked at
the gate or entranceway, with a corresponding number on the food trail map.
Wherever vineyards thrive, olives do just as
well.
The Village Press uses old-style methods to extract for maximum taste
and purity.
TIP
Food Trail
information is available from
Tourism New Zealand and
www.savourhawkesbay.co.nz.
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CHEERIO!
New Zealand’s ecological diversity and unique
beauty give it an almost ethereal quality. To the Maori it continues to be
the “Land of the Long White Cloud”. To adventure seekers, it’s a travel
dream come true.
From the land of the
Kiwis, I’m Rudy Maxa wishing you a fond cheerio!
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