OC at scenic viewpoint

Hi, I’m Rudy Maxa.   This time we’re on the Italian Riviera, seeking la dolce vita in one of the most romantic places in the world.  From Genoa’s historic port to Italy’s most alluring resorts - next, it’s the Italian Riviera, on More Travels.

VO Narrator

Join Rudy for the ins and outs of travels at the speed of life.  Efficient, adventurous escapes for today’s’ on-the-go vacations.  Our travel authority is syndicated columnist Rudy Maxa – widely known as public radio’s The Savvy Traveler.

OC, on spectacular cliff overlooking water

With death-defying cliffs and beaches that glisten like jewels, the Italian Riviera is as stunning a coastline as anywhere in Europe.  And it was along this coast that centuries ago Italy’s small city-states garnered their wealth thanks mainly to prime waterfront real estate.

Map

We’re starting in Genoa for a taste old-world elegance, traveling south to the resort areas of Portofino and the Cinqueterre, and ending up in the home of Italy’s vertically challenged tower, Pisa

Genoa, view from elevated platform modern waterfront scenes

Genoa is a busy and cosmopolitan.  Hugely popular with cruise ships, on the surface it looks like a typical sprawling city.   But if you look beyond the modern façade, you’ll see plenty of remnants of its old-time wealth and grandeur. 

OC walking to funicular

As a journalist, I do a lot of traveling, but often without a lot of time to spare.  So I’ve learned to be very efficient with my free time.  When I visit a foreign city like Genoa, I don’t try to see everything.  Instead, I focus my sightseeing on the very best the city has to offer.  I hit the highlights, but always take time to sample the flavor of the culture, both present and past.

Zecca-Righi funicular, old city walls

For a view of the old city walls, we’re hopping the funicular that’s a favorite with locals.  From this lookout we can see an outline of the old city’s fortresses.

Pop-up

The funicular station is located on Largo della Zecca.

The sturdy walls that fortified Genoa are the second longest in the world next to the great wall of China.  And they saw plenty of action. 

OC

With the collapse of the Roman empire, Italy was fragmented into little city-states.  When they weren’t battling invaders from the rest of Europe, they were fighting among themselves.

Views of old city

Beginning in the 13^th century, Genoa engaged in fierce struggles with Venice and Pisa for domination of Mediterranean trade.  Genoa soon became a major maritime player.

Walking in historic center

Genoa’s historic center is concentrated into narrow, winding streets that are closed to traffic.  It makes exploring on foot irresistible.

Cattadrale San Lorenzo

Cattadrale San Lorenzo was the heart of medieval Genoa’s political and religious life.  As early as the 12^th century, all the city’s big events happened here - ceremonies, proclamations, elections.  The black slate and white marble that’s so common in this part of Italy embellishes the grand cathedral inside and out. 

More cathedral

The cathedral is a storehouse for treasures seized from the Holy Land by medieval merchant sea captains.  Perhaps the most intriguing part is the Chapel of John the Baptist.   The claim is that it holds not only John the Baptist’s ashes, but also the plate on which his head was served to Salome, and a chalice that was part of the dinner service during the Last Supper.

A British shell landed on the cathedral during WWII, but miraculously failed to explode.

Street scenes, Columbus signs, Columbus statue

Around just about every corner we’re reminded that Genoa is the birthplace of Christopher Columbus.  Thanks to the city’s most famous son, much of the gold seized by Spain from the New World found its way to Genoa’s harbor. 

OC

Ironically, Columbus’ journeys to the New World would eventually lead to a decline in the city’s wealth and status.  As international trade shifted from the Mediterranean to the Americas, Genoa’s power dwindled. 

Via Garibaldi

But while the good times lasted, Genoa reigned supreme.  Some of the city’s leading families amassed huge fortunes.  In the 16^th Century, Genoa’s elite began building extravagant homes, flaunting their newfound wealth.  Now called Via Garibaldi, this was once known as “Golden Street”.  Thirteen palaces sprang up here in a period of just ten years.  Genoa’s upper crust hoped to escape the cramped conditions in the medieval town center and complemented their estates with expansive courtyards and colorful frescos.  Today, most of these palaces have been converted to banks or galleries.

My favorite palace is just a few blocks off of Via Garibaldi. 

OC, on street in old city

In Genoa, it can be a little challenging to find a specific address.

Shots of street numbers

Here’s a hint: there are two sets of street numbers: red for commercial establishments and black for homes and office buildings.

Palazzo Reale

Palazzo Reale dates to the 17^th century and boasts extravagant Rococo rooms now used to display artwork.  It was originally built as a home for the Balbis, a wealthy Genoan family who made a killing in the silk trade.  The palace was later purchased by Italian royalty.  Flemish painter Anthony Van Dyck, who was close friends with the Balbi family, painted this portrait of Caterina Balbi.  Much of the furniture is preserved from Genoa’s golden age, hinting at the style to which the city’s aristocracy had become accustomed.  The ballroom on the upper floor is especially decadent.  This mirrored gallery will look familiar to Francophiles - it was modeled after the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.

Harbor boat ride

Tour boats glide regularly along Genoa’s waterfront and it’s fun way to see the hardworking harbor. 

Pop-up

Harbor tours leave daily from Porto Antico on the waterfront.

Boat ride

It’s obvious that the city’s fortunes are still inextricably linked to the sea.  Perhaps it’s Genoa’s sea-going history that that accounts for its independent spirit.  Genoa, like the other Italian city-states, was a battleground for French, Spanish and Austrian imperialism.  In the mid-18^th century, the Austrian army invaded the city, looting goods and abusing the locals.  The Genoese managed to fight off the intruders armed only with rocks.  It was a brief but satisfying victory.  A century later, the growing nationalistic movement would ultimately unify Italy.

OC

Genoa is fascinating, but the clock is ticking.  I’m ready to escape the big city crowds.  It’s time to sample some of that Riviera sweet life.  Even if you only have a few days of downtime in Genoa, it’s just minutes away to total relaxation.

Driving scenes

Like a watercolor painting, the hues of the Riviera are a palette for the eye.  Pastel fishing villages and shorelines that radiate sunlight entice travelers seeking respite from city traffic and noise.  This is the kind of time-forgotten setting that most of us dream we’ll find when we head for the Italian coast.

Map

We’re traveling south to Portofino, the ultimate in seaside resort towns.

Portofino street and harbor scenes

Portofino is as romantic as a picture postcard.  Nineteenth century artists were drawn to this port for its unparalleled beauty.  Later, the rich and stylish found secluded Portofino ideal for illicit rendezvous.  Hollywood types like Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart also retreated here to escape the prying lenses of the paparazzi.  Today Portofino is not exactly a secret.  Day-tripping tourists prowl the streets and the small harbor is like a club for international chic.  You’ll see yachts here flying flags from every corner of the world.

Village square

The town square is perfect for sipping café and people-watching.

OC at café

Throughout history, Italians have had a natural talent for laying out towns for maximum visual appeal.  Take Portofino for example.  Here village streets aren’t laid out according to some geometric plan. Instead, buildings and monuments form an artistic composition.

Street shots

Streets wind into a central plaza…drawing people together and creating a sense of community.  Around each corner are unexpected perspectives and angles that just somehow seem “right”. 

Splendido Hotel

Restaurant

While the food here may unnerve the calorie conscious, when visiting Italy eating is at least half the fun.  I figure vacation is time to live it up.  My Italian friend Roberto’s favorite eatery is Restaurant Rosa, a few miles from Portofino in the town of Camogli. 

In this country, sharing a meal is nearly sacred for bonding with others. 

Rudy:  Roberto, dinner takes a little longer in Italy, doesn’t it, than in most countries?

Roberto: It does, but it’s fun, I believe. You have time to speak with people.  You have in front of you dishes…And you can joke with people…it’s a way of getting to know someone else.  It’s really fun.

Rudy: And it’s Italian law that you have to have three courses.

Roberto: Absolutely.  Maybe four.

Rudy: Four or five is better, but three is a basic minimum.

Every part of Italy has its regional specialties.  Here, locals ######### the pesto, made with parmesan, pine nuts, olive oil, and basil fresh from the garden. They’re right - it’s utterly delectable. 

Naturally, I always save room for dessert.

Driving

On a quest for even more remote and romantic retreats, we’re heading south to Cinqueterre.

Map

Cinqueterre means “five lands”.  In this case, it’s a string of five fishing villages clinging to cliffs, nearly hidden between the mountains and the sea.

Cinqueterre scenics

If you’re yearning for pure glorious scenery and serious relaxation, this is just the place.  Cinqueterre stretches along a 15-mile fantasy of coastline.  The cliffs are like giant staircases of terraced vineyards, and the olive groves seem endless.  Ask any local and they’ll tell you the best olive oil in Italy comes from these hills.

Shots of train, hiking trail

Years ago, the towns of the Cinqueterre could be reached only by donkey or boat.  A commuter train now serves all of the villages, and the old donkey paths have become a hiker’s paradise.

Monterosso

The northernmost village, Montorosso al Mare, is the only one easily accessible by car.  Private vehicles are restricted, but taxis are allowed. Montorosso is more touristed than the other towns, so there are plenty of hotels and restaurants. 

Touring town

A medieval tower divides the town into new and old sections.  The venerable parish church wears its rose window with pride. 

OC in front of church

It was considered a status symbol in the Middle Ages for a town to be able to afford a rose window. 

And the Cinqueterre saw its share of prosperity before being overshadowed by trading bigwigs like Genoa and Pisa.  While officially autonomous, the region was for centuries dominated by Genoa, with occasional incursions by Pisa.

Beach scenes

The Cinqueterre doesn’t offer the expansive beaches that are de rigueur for big resort areas.  But that’s just as well; it keeps this coastline from getting overdeveloped.  While many of the beaches are more pebbly than sandy, they’re still great for swimming.  The best sandy beach is right here in Monterosso.

Shots of train

The next Cinqueterre village, is about an hour and a half by foot, or a moment’s train ride.

OC

I’m opting for the train.  You can buy a special ticket that allows you unlimited daily travel between the villages, and since they are only a few minutes apart, it comes in handy.  If time is tight, you can easily see all five towns in a day.   Or, if you’re feeling laid back, you may just want to linger in one or two.

Coastal scenes

The towns of the Cinqueterre are so similar it may hard to keep them apart.  But each has personality and charm all it’s own.  Once you get to know them you’ll never want to leave.

Vernazza

Vernazza is a fairy tale of a town.  It sits on a tiny strip of coastline with sheer cliffs as a backdrop.  Blessed with a rocky spit, Vernazza is the only one of the five towns with a real port.

Castle in Vernazza

The old tower that guards the town remains from days when Turks and pirates terrorized this coast. The pirates sometimes even kidnapped residents and sold them into slavery in the east.  You can climb the steep tower steps to scout for marauding ships that may still be lurking in these waters.

Corniglia

Unlike the other Cinqueterre towns, which hug the shore, Corniglia is perched high on a hillside with a stretch of rocky beach far below. 

The town is home to about 250 people.  In the evening everyone gathers in the square to gossip about the day’s activities and chat with passers-by.

Winery

The road from Corniglia to Manarola hosts the region’s wine co-op.  Not surprisingly, Cinqueterre is famous for its wine (we are in Italy, after all!)  Ever since Roman times this area has been the center of Cinqueterre winemaking.  A wine jug from Corniglia was even found among the ruins at Pompeii.  Around these parts, locals are particularly proud of the sweet white wine.  It’s made only with grapes grown near the sea.  In old days, this wine was used as a medicine or brought out to celebrate a wedding or a birth.  Today it’s prized as a dessert wine.

Manarola

Down the coast from Corniglia, Manarola is a striking sight.   This quintessential fishing village clings like a barnacle to its dark rock. Each morning, fishermen set out in colorful varnished boats, just as their ancestors have for centuries. Later, lucky diners reap the rewards of the day’s catch.

OC on hiking trail

I’m ready for a little hike.  The most popular trail is this 20-minute stretch between Manarola and Riomaggiore called the Via dell’ Amore.

Hiking, shots of flowers

No wonder this is the trail of love. All around flowers blossom in riotous color.  For hundreds of years the Riviera has been Italy’s florist shop.  As early as the 16^th century, nobility from other regions ordered their fresh bouquets from here.

Trail shot

You can actually walk between all of the Cinqueterre towns in about five hours.

Pop-up

Be sure to ask about the current status of the trail you choose: they are constantly being closed for improvements

Riomaggiore

Time to get out the cameras; Riomaggiore puts the picture in picturesque.  It’s a beehive of peeling pastel houses and lively cafes rimmed by a shimmering beach. 

According to tradition, the village was founded in the 8th century by a group of Greek refugees who were fleeing religious persecution. The town still welcomes those seeking refuge.  If you’re interested in renting a room in a private home, you’ll find lots of options here.

When you’re ready for a snack, follow your nose to a local bakery loaded with temptations.  The focaccia al formaggio, a pizza-like bread with cheese, is perfecto.

OC, on waterfront, possibly Vernazza?

What did I tell you?  A few days here and you’ll want to call in sick…forever.  But if we want to see what’s around the corner we’ve got to move on.

Map

We have one more stop on our trip, and this one needs no introduction.

Pisa, tower

The Leaning Tower of Pisa is probably the most recognizable monument this side of the Eiffel Tower.  It’s actually one of three grand structures in Pisa’s Field of Miracles. Pisa was a maritime powerhouse in the Middle Ages, and, like the other affluent Italian towns of the time, it poured money into architectural and religious wonders.  

Tower

The tower began to lean after only three stories had been built, and the project was suspended.  It turned out that the foundation wasn’t solid rock, but water-soaked clay.  Still, a century later, the eight-story marble tower was completed.  While there are ongoing efforts to stabilize it, its tilt continues to increase about a millimeter a year.

Duomo

It was designed as a bell tower for the Duomo, a very influential building in its day.  The distinctive Romanesque style, with dark and light stripes and blind arches, was imitated across Italy.

Duomo interiors

The interior of the Duomo is haunting in its majesty.  The wealth of decoration was a perk offered by Pisa’s former domination of this corner of the Mediterranean. When Pisa’s powerful fleet drove the Muslim Turks from Sicily, they captured a treasure trove of riches for their trouble.  They decided to invest this fortune in a cathedral that would stand as a symbol of the victory of Christianity over Islam.  Interestingly enough, much of the décor is obviously of Islamic extraction. 

Cemetery

Many visitors to Pisa’s famous tower overlook the striking indoor cemetery next to the Duomo.  Legend holds that during the Crusades, ten Pisan ships carried soil from Calvary in the Holy Land and laid it here in the cemetery.  The frescos that adorned the walls of the cemetery were among the largest in Europe before being damaged by fire in WWII.  This image, called the Triumph of Death, gave a typically medieval warning to beware the temptations of daily life.  Massive chains that hang on the wall were once used to close off access to Pisa’s harbor.

[Soundbite with Maurizio]  These chains closed the port of Pisa in the middle ages.  Then when the Genoese defeated the Pisans, they took away the chain to Genoa and gave half of the chain to Florence, their ally.  Then many centuries later the two cities returned the chains to Pisa as a sign of friendship.

Baptistry

The nearby Baptistery is like an enormous Romanesque crown topped with lacey Gothic gables and statuary.  [Inside] It’s most famous for its beautiful hexagonal pulpit by sculptor Nicola Pisano, which rests on the backs of three marble lions.  Some claim that the Renaissance really started here, with Pisano’s work.   This Naked Hercules represented a move away from the medieval sensibility and a return to the classics. And the acoustics in here are, well, heavenly…[possibly get docent to sing?]

OC

Pisa’s glory days ended when it was out-muscled by its rivals Genoa and Florence, and eventually its river started to silt up.  But the leaning tower hangs on, a metaphor for the fragility yet dogged persistence of human achievement.  Thanks for joining us as we explored Genoa and the Italian Riviera.