Europe's Great Cities
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AMSTERDAM
Getting Around Town
Van Gogh Museum
Rijksmuseum
Indonesian Rijsttafel
BRUSSELS
Grand Place
Comic Strip Art
Le Falstaff Restaurant
Belgian Chocolate
LONDON
London Eye
Tate Modern
Athenaeum Hotel
Tamarind Restaurant
Theatre
PARIS
Pompidou Center
Stravinsky Fountain
Les Bouquinistes
Musée d'Orsay
Rodin
EUROPE'S GREAT CITIES
In
this half hour, we’ll visit a quartet of extraordinary metropolitan centers.
We start our cities tour in
London,
England, hop across the Channel to
Amsterdam
in the Netherlands, head south to
Brussels
in Belgium, and end in France’s international city of lights,
Paris.
AMSTERDAM
Across the Channel, other cities are calling. It’s been
hundreds of years since rural folk drawn to fresh opportunity poured into
Europe’s urban world. By the late 19th century, artists and poets
were trying to lure people back to the simplicity of the countryside. But to
no avail, the giant cities grew like crazy.
And one of the craziest is Amsterdam. The village named for ‘the dam
in the Amstel River’ 800 years ago thrives today amidst busy canals,
400 bridges, and hordes of people. It’s a major port, an international
financial hub, and one of Europe’s top tourism magnets. The city built up
over soggy land sits in a county called Holland in a country
called The Netherlands, and the national language is Dutch.
Confusing? Relax. It’s a welcoming metropolis.
TIP:
You can find the Official Amsterdam Site at
www.visitamsterdam.nl.
If you're interests also lie outside of Amsterdam, visit
www.visitholland.com.
GETTING AROUND TOWN...
A quick take on Amsterdam—canals, bicycles, an open door
attitude. Exactly. But none of it came easily. To get a sense of this
city’s legacy of tolerance and its passion for arts, we have a full day
ahead. And I promise you , it will end with an international culinary
flair—Indonesian Rijisttafel.
Grab a free bicycle and take a spin. You’ll quickly get a sense of the maze
of canals, and the ethnic diversity bearing out the country’s hospitality.
Foreigners have always been a familiar sight here. As early as 1602, Dutch
merchants traded around the world, and religious refugees have long made a
beeline for the Netherlands. Despite off-the scale population density, the
Dutch insist on a people-friendly, high standard of living.
TIP:
For information about Amsterdam's "White Bike" system, visit
www.depo.nl
and
www.tve.org. For information about Amsterdam's public
transportation system, check out
www.gvb.nl.
THE VAN GOGH MUSEUM
The Van Gogh Museum houses the world’s largest collection of the
Dutch artist’s work. Vincent Van Gogh
lived mostly in France, and only in his final ten years--1880 to 1890--did
he take up drawing and painting. He moved from urban Paris to rural France,
from rich, heavy colors to vibrant light, and from Impressionism to his
famous linear style. Plagued by turmoil much of his life, Van Gogh killed
himself at age 33. His grief-stricken brother brought hundreds of his
paintings and drawings back home to Amsterdam. Today, Van Gogh’s art is the
most recognized in the world.
TIP:
For more information about the Van Gogh Museum, visit
www.vangoghmuseum.nl.
THE RIJKSMUSEUM
But for pure Dutch, if you see nothing else in Amsterdam,
you must visit the Rijksmuseum. In the city’s long-lived passion for art,
the country’s eclectic past and culture unfold in vivid, detailed images.
Lucky for us, Amsterdam’s 17th century boom meant work--a
livelihood for artists. Commissioned by the rich to immortalize their
prestige, the painters focused on landscapes, faces, costume—whatever
portraits depicted ownership and the good life. Johannes Vermeer lit
magically the most ordinary daily routine. Frans Hals created with
attitude—he captured the moment—often with vitality and humor.
But… Rembrandt
ruled! Known as the greatest master of the Dutch school, Rembrandt reigns as
genius artist historian.
VO At all hours, crowds gather around The Shooting Company of Captain
Frans Banning Cocq completed in 1642. Well-known as the Night
Watch, Rembrandt’s piece caused an uproar. He had not posed the
soldiers in a dignified lineup, but made them ‘men on the move,’ expressive
and in perpetual motion. Rembrandt’s universal appeal lies in his profound
mastery of the richness of human character.
TIP:
For more information about the Rijksmuseum, visit
www.rijksmuseum.nl.
INDONESIAN RIJSTTAFEL
We promised a
sublime finale in Amsterdam. As Dutch as windmills and canals, a
feast of Indonesian dishes or Rijsttafel will cap our day.
Ranging from mild to highly spiced Indonesian food, the ‘rice table’
includes fish, meat, vegetables, rice, and a spicy sauce called sambel.
Today, the Indonesian Rijstafel is a full-grown feature of Dutch cuisine.
TIP:
For more information about Puri Mas Indonesian Restaurant, visit
www.purimas.nl.
TOP OF PAGE
BRUSSELS
Great cities thrive on pushing the edge in architecture, the arts, commerce,
and technology. On any great city square, you can feel the vitality of the
self-assured urbanites. Rich or poor, they seem to carry on confidently in
the midst of what a stranger may take to be chaos.
It’s a city that’s 1,000 years old, headquarters to NATO, a legendary magnet
for writers and artists, and oh, yes, it’s the capital of a country known
for chocolates. Brussels takes pride in its hospitality and Belgians take
pride in their capitol.
TIP:
For information about getting around Brussels, visit out
www.acl.be. For
information about Belgium in general, check out
www.visitbelgium.com
and www.trabel.com.
THE GRAND PLACE
The heart of this city is the Grand Place and the very best place to start.
Set in Brussel’s Lower Town, this is one of Europe’s most beautiful town
squares. The medieval setting lends a dramatic backdrop to this hub of
international politics. Today, the European Commission, NATO, and the
Council of Ministers of the European Union all call Brussels “Home.” On the
400-year old guild houses, each façade is different—a hand-crafted legacy of
past artisans and merchants.
In 1695, all but one of the original buildings crumpled under torrential
bombing by Louis Fourteenth. Miraculously, this fourteenth century
structure survived. The Gothic Town Hall or Hotel de Ville is the city’s
showpiece. And we’re in the right place-- the Tourist Information Office is
in the Town Hall—you’ll need a map to plan the day.
TIP:
For more information about the Grand Place, visit
www.trabel.com. For an interactive map and virtual tour of Brussels'
historical center, check out
www.ilotsacre.be.
BELGIAN CENTER FOR COMIC STRIP ART
At our first stop, the Art Nouveau architecture gets my attention. The
Grand Magasin Waucquex (say Mag-a-san Woo-kay) building offers a prime
example of open space created by light and glass and wrought
iron. Designed in 1906, the structure has evolved from department store to
enchanting city museum.
VO Within its
airy pockets sits the Belgian Center for Comic Strip Art, starring Tintin,
beloved reporter and quick-trick artist and his furry pal Snowy —both always
in trouble, both always escape. Here, visitors wander through Belgium’s
comic-strip origins and lighter history. Even with JUST 24-hours, this
museum is a must-see!
TIP:
For more information about the Belgian Center for Comic
Strip Art, visit
www.awn.com.
LE FALSTAFF RESTAURANT
Other Belgian
specialties are profoundly edible. Two blocks from the Grand Place, the
famous Butchers Street positions assertive waiters and competing stacks of
sea life to lure you inside. Le Falstaff Restaurant offers the robustness of
Shakespeare’s tale along with mounds of local mussels cooked in wine sauce,
and served with piles of fries. The visitor’s dilemma lies in deciding which
of the 300 Belgian beers should enhance the traditional meal….
TIP:
For more information about Le Falstaff Restaurant, visit
www.resto.be.
BELGIAN CHOCOLATE
….along with Belgian chocolates. This famous specialty offers instant energy
for sightseeing, and, of course, each calorie evaporates when you leave the
country!
TIP:
For more information about Galler Chocolates, visit
www.galler.com. For more information about Belgian
chocolate, visit
www.visitbelgium.com/chocol.htm. If you're intrigued by the idea
of a glossary of chocolate terms, check out
www.usatoday.com, and if you're interested in buying chocolate from
other regions of the world, go to
www.chocolatesource.com.
TOP OF PAGE
LONDON
One of Europe’s great cities majestically straddles both sides of the River
Thames. For many visitors, this capital of Great Britain is known for icons
of tradition—Big Ben named for a 13-ton bell, the formidable Houses of
Parliament, Tower of London notorious for grisly tales, and the Windsor
family’s Buckingham Palace. But symbols of new London run rampant,
and it’s hard to miss the contrast of old tradition cuddled up to 21st
century innovation.
Think of London as a nation, not a city—consider its world influence,
languages, great arts, theater, and multi-layered history. London teems
with grit and sophistication—an urban culture you can see and feel. But its
traditions are bending in the face of new generations. We’re talking 21st
century London.
TIP:
For information about visiting London, go to
www.na.visitlondon.com. For information about the Visitor
Information Center in Leicester Square, visit
www.londontown.com. For information about how to get around on
London's underground system, check out
www.tube.tfl.gov.uk.
BRITISH AIRWAYS LONDON EYE
Sixteen-hundred tons and what do you get? The highest observation wheel
ever built. The Eye was sketched first at the kitchen table of a husband and
wife architect team. Marks and Barfield pushed their impossible dream until
they won the backing of British Airways. Their mission, “…to create an
exciting new way to see and understand one of the greatest cities on earth.”
In March of 2000, mission accomplished! The Eye almost never closes,
and over 200 workers keep it safe and waiting for visitors.
TIP:
For more information about the British Airways London
Eye, visit
www.londoneye.com.
THE TATE MODERN
For dreams realized London’s millennium year 2000 stands tall.
Two months after the London Eye welcomed the public, a major new Tate
gallery opened. On its seven floors, the Tate Modern holds international
modern and contemporary art, from 1900 to the present. The works often
depict a passionate response to headlines of the day.
In the late 1930s, Spanish artist Pablo Picasso gripped the public with
images condemning fascist General Franco’s regime in the Spanish Civil War.
Weeping Woman, done in 1937, relates to Guernica, a series of
his paintings that toured England
to bring attention to the suffering of Spain’s war victims.
About the same time, a younger Spaniard, surrealist Salvador Dali was
shocking the art public, with bold, startling pictures inspired by Freud and
the new psychoanalysis.
Thirty years later, in the 1960s, Andy Warhol—the king of Pop Art—produced
his version of objects from tomato soup cans to celebrity portraits.
Once you’ve seen the old timers, don’t miss today’s innovators. The
no-holds barred contemporary exhibits are an ever-changing highlight
at the Tate Modern.
TIP:
For more information about the Tate Modern, visit
www.tate.org.uk/modern/.
VO For
bonus fun, you can cruise from the Modern Tate to the original Tate
Britain by way of a 220 seat catamaran. The boat also stops at the London
Eye.
TIP:
The boat departs every 40 minutes. For more information
about the Tate to Tate Boat Service, visit
www.tate.org.uk/tatetotate/.
THE ATHENAEUM HOTEL
After a full day in London, I like to wind down in a great hotel. The
Athenaeum is another sample of the new butting up against the old.
The 75 year-old structure was remodeled in the 1990s. It’s luxurious
modern, and yet, so old British. To enjoy a proper cup of tea,
figure on a few extra calories.
TIP:
For more information about the Athenaeum, visit
www.athenaeumhotel.com.
THE TAMARIND RESTAURANT
And don’t miss trying an Indian meal. You’ll find all kinds of
good restaurants. We had dinner at the fancy Tamarind near the hotel.
Featuring Tandoris meats, and complex, spicy Vindaloo dishes, the Michelen-starred
Tamarind offers some of London’s best Indian cuisine. From Garlic or Ginger
Chicken to an exotic pickled spinach, to traditional spiced lamb, the menu
is packed with tough choices. Top you favorite with chutney, a Tamarind
house specialty.
TIP:
For more information about the Tamarind, visit
www.tamarindrestaurant.com. For
a list of Indian restaurants in London, check out
www.tandoori.co.uk.
LONDON THEATRE
For London nightlife, the city is a theater-lover’s dream--the
only questions being ‘what to choose’ and ‘will there be tickets.’ Take
chocolates with you. In London, you eat chocolate at intermission. A sweet
ending to a whirlwind look at Great Britain’s great city.
TIP:
For last-minute tickets, ask the concierge at your hotel
or visit the
half-price ticket office at Leicester Square. For more information
on how to buy tickets, go to
www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk. To find out what's playing in
town, check out
www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk/london/shows and
www.londontheatre.co.uk.
TOP OF PAGE
PARIS
The Seine River separates the upscale Right Bank from the
bohemian, student-centered Left Bank. Standing among gargoyles on the top
of Notre Dame Cathedral, we can get ideas for the day’s agenda! Never fear,
it’s a manageable and exciting task.
One day in Paris. Okay. What can we explore that we can’t find anywhere
else? You can’t miss the sense of style or bohemian flavor or the cuisine.
We’ll get to that. But first, let’s check out a structure that thirty years
ago had Parisians aghast and protesting. Today, it’s a landmark of Paris. 24
hours? You can’t miss this one.
TIP:
For more information on Paris, visit
www.paris.org. For
information about how to get around Paris, go to
www.ratp.fr. You can
also check out Rudy Maxa's guide book
"SmartTravels.TV Europe"
for more tips and information on Europe's Great Cities.
POMPIDOU CENTER
It’s fun to walk from Notre Dame to the Pompidou Center. Imagine this
apparition bursting onto the scene in the late 1970s. For starters, it’s
inside out. Pipe systems traditionally hidden— electricity and water and
ventilation—are a featured design, intricate detail lit up with coded
colors! Escalators carry visitors around—their trail blazed bright red.
People flock to see the National
modern art collection inside. But for this 24 hours in Paris, we’ll
settle for the
exterior--until
next time.
TIP:
For more information about the Pompidou Center, visit
www.cnac-gp.fr.
STRAVINSKY FOUNTAIN
Right next door, the Stravinsky Fountain accents the museum’s
mood —vitality, movement, and fantastic colors dedicated to composer Igor
Stravinsky. A natural resting spot, before a stroll to the river.
TIP:
For more works by one of the sculptors of the Stravinsky
Fountain, check out
www.karaart.com.
LES BOUQUINISTES RESTAURANT
If you check out the Latin Quarter along the river—in between
book stalls you’ll come across cafes and restaurants with menus posted. I
like the smaller places, often exquisite cuisine, but informal. Among
friends, it’s fun to try a little of everything.
TIP:
For more information about Les Bouquinistes, visit
www.lesbouquinistes.com.
MUSÉE
D'ORSAY
From here, it’s an easy walk or a short taxi ride to the
excellent Musee D’Orsay. Transformed from the
old Paris Train Station into a stunning space, the D’Orsay Museum
specializes in art from mid-19th century to World War One.
The Impressionist collection greets visitors with one renowned artist
after another. The vitality of Paris was a constant theme among
Impressionists, as was changing light and movement. Mavericks of their
time, these artists created images with new vision and ambiguity, leaving
realistic renderings to the classicists…and the grumbling to their critics.
TIP:
For more information about the Musée
d'Orsay, visit
www.musee-orsay.fr.
RODIN MUSEUM
A short stroll from the D’Orsay, the Rodin Museum honors a
contemporary of the Impressionists, sculptor Auguste Rodin. The museum
holds great art, including Rodin’s personal collection, but the magic
is outside behind the museum in the Rodin Sculpture Garden.
A great sculptor makes cold stone look alive. And Rodin’s bronze statues
seem to breathe. He worked seven years on Monument to Balzac,
catching perfectly an intense moment. Burghers of Calais re-creates a
14th century event--the city fathers about to turn the keys of
Calais over to their English invaders. And Rodin’s most famous, The
Thinker, part of his Gates of Hell series, sits strong, natural and more
flesh-like than bronze has a right to be.
TIP:
For more information about the Rodin Museum, visit
www.musee-rodin.fr.
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