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Interested in planning your vacation to
Carcassonne or the Pyrenees? Start your trip at Expedia.com/
France.
Music from the show: The
Bandolets
Accompanying the scenery
today are a trio of Pyrenees singers called the Bandolets, who sing
traditional songs from the region. Their songs are half chanted, half sung,
a custom that dates back to the minstrels of the middle ages.
TIP
Find out more about these traditional singers of the
Pyrenees at
www.pyrenees-pireneus.com
Carcassonne
The medieval fortress of Carcassonne thrills at first sight. The
largest medieval fortress in Europe, Carcassonne seems frozen in time by
some magical spell. Over the centuries the castle fell into ruin. In the 19th
century, architect Violet le Duc restored Carcassonne – building up
the walls and replacing the turret tops. Some accuse Mr. le Duc of
overdoing it – he added a big dose of romance for some tastes, but the
result is spectacular.
Visitors can wander the ramparts and examine the double walls of the fortress that successfully thwarted many attempts at invasion.
At its height in the 12th and 13th centuries, Carcassonne was ruled by the Trencavel family who were allied to the Counts of Toulouse. It was a time of relative peace and prosperity and the Trencavels ruled with tolerance. They extended protection to a religious group known as the Cathars or Albigensians who lived in the area. The Cathars practiced an austere Christianity, that the Pope condemned as heretical and dangerous.
The Pope and the King of France joined together to squash the Cathars and seize the land of Pays d’Oc. A savage crusade against the Cathars followed that decimated much of Pays d’Oc and Carcassonne was defeated.
To this day the vicious leader of that crusade, Simon de Montfort, is reviled here. Carcassonne stages tournaments in the summer, recreating the jousts between the crusaders and Trencavel loyalists.
In the early Middle Ages, jousts were nothing more than military training. Later, when ideas of chivalry spread and troubadours sang of love and war, jousts became popular spectacles, drawing huge crowds. The winner usually took the loser’s horse and armor.
TIP Info on Trencavel jousts & other events:
www.carcassonne.org.
After a long day of swinging war hammers and wearing sweltering armor,
it’s nice to cool down at a first class hotel like Carcassonne’s Hotel de la
Cite.
First, an after-battle dip in the pool really hits the spot. From the
elegant, wood paneled rooms, you can survey the fortress and keep your eye
out for attacking crusaders. And to dine like a King, even if you are not
staying here, check out the hotel restaurant,
La Barbacane.
If you stay at any hotel inside the walls at Carcassonne, call ahead for driving instructions.
TIP Visit
www.hoteldelacite.com for more about
the hotel.
A car is essential for exploring the region around Carcassonne. Leasing
is the least expensive alternative if you need a car for a couple of weeks
or more.
Several car rental companies such as Europe By Car offer a variety of lease options. We picked this car from Peugeot's Open Europe program.
TIP For a helpful guide on driving in France, check out
www.francetourism.com.
Our wheels take us to the historic town of Albi.
The medieval quarter with its many mansions recalls an era of glory.
The Counts of Toulouse, once one of the most powerful rulers in Europe, held
a huge amount of land Pays d’Oc in the 12th century, including
Carcassonne. Under their rule, Albi’s town’s bridge was built and trade
began to flourish. Merchants grew rich making blue dye from a local plant
and they built half timbered houses along Albi’s narrow streets.
TIP Visit
www.mairie-albi.fr if you're interested
in visiting this historic town.
Roquefort Cheese
We’re in Roquefort country, and I cannot resist this pungent cheese.
Roquefort is made from sheep’s milk, as opposed to cow’s milk. It’s aged in
caves for a minimum of three months where it develops its intense flavor.
TIP Visit
www.roquefort-societe.com if you're interested in a tour of a Roquefort
cave.
Toulouse Lautrec
The counts of Toulouse are remembered
for having been one of the great ruling families in France. But one count
led a very different life and is remembered for his vivid paintings of
bohemian Paris in the late 1800’s: Count
Henri
de Toulouse Lautrec.
Born near Albi, and raised here, Toulouse Lautrec is now celebrated in a museum that contains the largest collection of his art anywhere.
Crippled by a congenital bone disease that may have resulted from the fact that his parents were first cousins, Lautrec nonetheless possessed an ebullient spirit and a desire to embrace the world.
As a young man, Henri moved to Paris and enrolled in art classes in Montmartre. These were heady times: the Impressionists were experimenting with light and color, Vincent Van Gogh was a fellow student, and artists and models were kicking up their heels at famous nightclubs like the Moulin Rouge. Lautrec found his niche in the late night world of Montmartre, painting dancers, and prostitutes ……. and drawing posters for the acts that took to the stage.
With the territory came too much indulgence and by 37 Henri was dead from alcoholism and probably, syphilis.
As an artist, Lautrec had a style all his own: ….with bold, fluid lines, ……..a love of color ……and above all an ability to capture people caught in private moments.
For Lautrec lovers, or anyone curious about this exceptional artist, an excursion north takes you to the family chateau at Bosc. This was Lautrec’s childhood home and his great grand niece is here to show us about.
In these rooms, Lautrec first developed his love of drawing. Often bedridden because of his fragile bones, Henri could not engage in sports or hunting or any of the activities his father and uncles enjoyed. In fact, he was unable to live up to any of the roles expected of the young count of Toulouse. Drawing became his lifeline.
“He was a person who attracted people with his joy of life, his gaiety, his drollery and at the same time he had a sensibility for others.
TIP Check out Toulouse Lautrec by Julia
Frey for a fascinating read. Or, visit
www.lautrec.info for
more information about the artist.
Collioure
All over town are reminders of Collioure’s artistic legacy. A walking
trail shows the places Matisse and his friends
Derain,
Dufy and Juan Gris painted. The artistic movement called
Fauvism, known for its bright bold colors and skewed
perspective, took route in this seaside town.
None of the Fauvists original works resides in Collioure, but there are plenty of newcomers hoping to be the next sensation. The brilliant colors in Collioure continue to inspire local painters like long time resident Carmina. You can visit galleries in the old town and if you are lucky you can meet the artists.
TIP Stop in the
tourist office for info on the best
Collioure galleries.
Castles Queribus and
Peyrepertuse
The castle of Queribus, built in the tenth century, is one of the best
preserved of these castles. Those persecuted Cathars, whom
Carcassonne tried to protect, fled to many of these castles to hide out from
the crusaders sent to obliterate them. Queribus was one of their last
strongholds before they were driven into the mountains.
These castle fortresses mainly served as lookouts and were manned by about fifteen soldiers: a governor, sergeants, and men-at-arms. Nobles and townspeople would hole up at the forts in times of trouble.
Long after the Cathars, Queribus defended the border
with Spain. When the region of Rousillion joined France in 1659, the border
moved further south to the Pyrenees and the castle fell into disuse.
A stone’s throw from Queribus, the romantic ruins of Peyrepertuse grow out
of the cliff. This castle’s name comes from the old language of Pays d’Oc
and means pierced rocks. Built about the same time as its neighbor,
Peyrepertuse occupies a vertiginous narrow perch on the rocks. It’s easy to
see why Peyrepertuse never fell to any invader.
TIP Visit
www.casteland.com
for great details about
Queribus &
Peyrepertuse.
Cassoulet
Legend has it that a French stew called
Cassoulet fortified hungry troops defending a town near Carcassonne and gave
them the strength to defeat the invaders. And no wonder, this local stew
has everything in it!
Many variations exist, but a major French culinary society declared that true Cassoulet consists of pork sausage, mutton or goose, along with white haricot beans, pork rinds, stock and flavorings.
Making Cassoulet can take days and the result is a rich flavorful stew that will leave you capable of taking on anyone.
TIP
Visit
www.casteland.com for great details about the castle..
The Pyrenees
Cloaked with gentle meadows, lush forests and inhabited by wild boar and
deer, in these inviting mountains you’ll find picturesque mountain villages,
easy hikes and spas guaranteed to cure all ills.
The outdoor adventures here are endless – you can trek across the entire range, or amble easily through spectacular canyons. River rafting and hang gliding are popular and of course, skiing in the winter. Trails are well marked and many have inns or huts along the way. Unlike the Alps, most Pyrenees peaks are accessible to strong walkers.
TIP Visit
www.parc-pyrenees.com for the Pyrenees National Park official website.
Also, check out
www.pyreneesguide.com for more information about the region.
Luz St Sauveur
Our base is the mountain town Luz Saint Sauveur. Legend has it the town
was named by Spanish bandits and smugglers who, coming across the mountain
passes, were terrified by the great peaks and gloomy gorges, but then they
saw a light (Luz, in Spanish) and when they reached it, they found a
lively, welcoming village.
The best time to get to know Luz Saint Sauveur is Monday morning on market day. Here, a delightful array of regional specialties lines the street: everything from fresh goat cheeses to edelweiss flowers – and a sample of the regional wine.
TIP Visit
www.pyrenees-decouvertes.com for more about the town. For a list
of other markets in the region, check out
www.lourdes-infotourisme.com.
Cirque de Gavarnie
The highlight of this region is a natural amphitheatre called the Cirque
de Gavarnie. It’s an easy hour’s hike or donkey ride to the entrance to the
amphitheatre that Victor Hugo described as “both a mountain and a rampart……
it is the most mysterious of structures by the most mysterious of architects
– it is nature’s coliseum.”
TIP Visit
www.gavarnie.com for more details.
The Spa at Luz St Sauveur
Back in town at the local spa, there’s nothing like a thermal bath to
loosen up those hiking muscles. Prices are quite reasonable and you can
come for a swim, a bath or massage. The waters of Luz Saint Sauveur are
used to treat everything from poor circulation to intestinal ailments
to laryngitis.
Romans recognized the special qualities of these waters, as did people in the 18th and 19th centuries. They would often spend weeks at the spas, hoping to cure an illness. Toulouse Lautrec’s mother took him frequently to soak in the Pyrenees spas, trying to mend his bones, but to no avail.
TIP You'll
find the address and phone number of the spa at
www.pyrenees-decouvertes.com.
St Savin
All over France, small, quiet villages unexpectedly house lovely hotels
with world class restaurants. In the magical stone town, St Savin, the chef
at
Le Viscos
prepares traditional local dishes with a new flair. From a fois gras
appetizer to crème brulee dessert – the menu features regional fare that
changes with the seasons.
TIP Visit
www.tourism.midi-pyrenees.org for bookings, tours, and info on the
Pyrenees.
Pic du Midi
From the top of the pass, a spectacular - and mercifully pain free--
gondola ride climbs another 3,500 feet to the summit of the Pic du Midi.
Once an important research center that provided NASA with maps of the moon
for Apollo missions, the Observatory today is a museum open to the public.
The bird’s eye view takes in some of the jagged granite peaks in over
270 miles of Pyrenees mountains.
TIP For
more information, visit
www.picdumidi.com.