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Interested in planning your vacation to Europe? Start your trip at Expedia.com/ Europe. |
INTRODUCTION
Hi. I’m Rudy Maxa.
300 years before Christ, a wise man said, “If the king loves music, there is
little wrong in the land”. If this is true, Europe is thriving. Music rings
out from its
concert halls,
opera houses,
festivals,
markets, and street corners. Wherever you’re heading—from Ireland to
Scandinavia to Italy—music is yours for the listening. Next, it’s A Music
Lovers’ Europe on Smart Travels.
TIP You'll
find another handy concert hall and music locator at
hoppa.com.
Travelers delight in Europe’s world of
live music.
They gather—for concerts, street music, and opera—to honor musical genius.
Whether old-style or cutting-edge, a music scene breaks down cultural
barriers and promises a ‘surprise.’ If the occasion is a music
festival, well
beware. You could lose your heart, toss away your agenda, and find yourself
practicing the
hardanger fiddle.
It’s worth the risk—the power of live music stays with us long after we’re
tucked in for the night.
In this half hour, we highlight my favorite musical moments in some irresistible—worth-a-special-trip—destinations; from Italy and the French Pyrenees to Ireland’s County Clare and Norway. We’ll hear familiar classics—Aida in Verona, and Mozart everywhere in Austria.
Where we come across music to remember, we come across musicians to remember—skilled and passionate. These are artists—so expect some innovations! Still, you can hear ‘traditional’ music all over Europe.
TIP
Interested in the European music scene? Check out
www.musicnavigator.org.
GRUPPO EMILIANO,
Italy
Now in my day that meant ethnic or folk music. We’ve all heard parodies on
folk music. But when did you last see serious folk musicians poking fun at
themselves—in the form of ‘cabaret’?
Where else but in Italia—Northern Italy in the town of Bologna? We caught
the unpredictable Gruppo Emiliano in a dress rehearsal. Gruppo
Emiliano describe themselves as “four souls bound by friendship and the
incessant need to make music rather than just listen to it.” Performing
together since 1979, these artists thrive on the physical hard work of
playing, the joy of bringing audiences close-in, and the challenge of
breathing new life into old music.
From the sublime to the ridiculous, they insist on doing it their own way!
TIP You'll find the
Gruppo Emiliano performance schedule at
www.gruppoemiliano.it
AIDA
Like its villages, musical Europe offers
variety, from new-age sounds to ancient Celtic. Each is a theme for
planning your trip—your own musical treasure hunt. Europe’s music is wildly
diverse. It engages us personally through rhythm, melody, harmony—ideas,
emotions and words.
For example, what do you think of that classic genre often composed by a
musical genius? You know, the grand slam that calls for orchestra, libretto,
stellar performance and voices? You’ve got it—Bravo! Next, a night at the
opera!
TIP
New to opera? Get your feet wet at
www.operaworld.com.
North of Bologna lies the elegant region of Veneto—known for exquisite
lodging, scrumptious dining and cultural attractions to match.
You’ll recognize the popular town of Verona as the meeting place of star
crossed lovers—the Montegues and the Capulets, Romeo and Juliet.
Shakespeare’s plays put Verona on the tourist map. Reminders everywhere
point to Verona as part of the Bard’s literary trail.
TIP
Discover how Shakespeare's play inspired
Bellini's opera at
artsedge.kennedy-center.org.
(Opera House) But, we are on a search for music—superb music. So, the
magic for me lies in Verona’s unsurpassed Opera House—the majestic Arena
bequeathed to us by Ancient Rome. It’s one of the best preserved of Italy’s
Roman amphitheaters, with 2,000 years of history. Close your eyes and
listen—you can almost hear gladiator battles, grand theater performances,
and classic opera!
We’re in luck. The program this evening is spectacular
Aida,
a tragic love story unfolding in ancient Egypt.
Music lovers have flocked to Verona’s summer opera for more than 90 years.
Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida opened the first season in 1913. Except for a
break during two World Wars, the Opera House has played to sell-out
audiences every year.
TIP
You can book tickets for Verona's Opera
Festival at
www.arena.it.
MOZART
in Austria
To seek out good live
music is a sure way to meet the locals. Verona’s production of Aida
had to deliver to a savvy audience—many of whom know Verdi’s score inside
and out. Now, should you find yourself in Austria looking for formal
music--Wolfgang
Amadeus Mozart is
everywhere!
Mozart was born in Salzburg, where he was celebrated as a child prodigy,
even before his tour of royal courts in Europe at age12.
Today, the town vigorously honors its native son.
Statues, museums, chocolates, even the airport is named after Mozart and,
everywhere, his music is played.
At age 25, restless and ready to escape,
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
headed for the city lights and sophistication of Vienna. In the magic city,
he composed and performed remarkably, and led a life of highs and lows for
ten years. And then-- at age 35--he was dead. A shockingly short life for
the long, brilliant legacy he left.
He
gave us great operas—including
Don Giovanni,
The Marriage of Figaro,
The Magic Flute. And Church
masses,
symphonies,
piano and violin concertos,
and the
Requiem he left unfinished.
For good reason,
Mozart’s music is featured in concerts
throughout the world. For a memorable evening we’re attending a concert in
Vienna’s elegant
Orangerie at Schonbrunn Palace. Nightly concerts take
music lovers back two centuries to the genius of Mozart. I can’t imagine a
music lovers’ tour of Europe without an evening in Austria applauding the
enduring work of the master.
TIP For more, read
The Compleat Mozart: A Guide to
the Musical Works of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
by
Neal Zaslaw and
William Cowdery.
HOUSE OF
MUSIC,
Vienna
Even with ‘Mozart’ on the brain, don’t
leave Vienna before its
House of Music
catapults you to this century! On the fourth floor, you’ll find the Mind
Forest—fun for any age--a playful, intense experience with
hyper-instruments. Making music through actions! No sheet music or actual
instruments—just hand motions and computers. Millions of visitors linger on
all five floors of the
House of Music—with its history of the classics to experiments
in sound. For me, the Mind Forest rules! Or actually, I mean, I
rule! Sensors respond to my every move! One exhibit even makes you the
maestro of a virtual orchestra! This should be easy, right? It’s New Age.
It’s virtual. It’s crazy, interactive musical fun!
TIP
If you'd prefer a music tour of the city,
check out
www.vienna.com.
TRADITIONAL IRISH DANCE
Music has always mesmerized. In Greek legend, the
song of Sirens
on the cliffs lured sailors to a watery death. There was Orpheus who could
tame wild beasts with his harp. And the blow of a trumpet, in medieval
times, called troops to battle and changed the course of history. Today, we
travelers seek out music that brings us together, lifts the spirit, and
tells us where in the world we are.
(The West Coast of Ireland) Let’s say, we were dropped
blindfolded onto this spot. Breaking waves, whipping wind, and a familiar
Irish sound all around. Within seconds, we’d know where we are. Maybe it’s
true that it’s “easier to understand a nation by listening to its music than
by learning its language.”
Where better to test this theory than in western Ireland, where music is the
soul and heartbeat of the countryside? On the Aran Islands or near Galway,
the sounds of fiddle, flute and uulin pipe draw you to them—ready or not.
Irish musicians stand prepared to play—in festivals, pubs, on streets, or at
an exciting new music center.
About
60 kilometers from Galway, the town of Ennis lies nestled on
the bank of the River Fergus. Founded in the 13th century by
Franciscan monks, today it is the lively capital of County Clare. About
24,000 people live here.
Glor Irish Music
Centre opened in 2001, and this pride of Ennis is moving full
bore on its mission to ‘celebrate the diversity and vibrancy of Irish
music.’ A blend of music masters, serious students and creative spaces make
possible the work of Glor--to learn, record, and preserve genuine Irish song
and dance.
It’s a stimulating place, driven by tradition and innovative spins. Glor
nurtures creativity. The core of ‘tradition’ remains, but the
interpretation of a piece ebbs and flows—vibrant, quiet, or
plaintive—depending on the experiences and artistic choice of the musicians.
TIP You'll find the Centre's calendar and bookings at www.glor.ie. You can take a listen to some of the music on-line, as well.
NORWEGIAN FOLK MUSIC
It’s no surprise that
Glor’s hard work to keep artistic values alive attracts thousands of
visitors. Who wouldn’t like to hang out in a vibrant scene enjoying
extraordinary talent? Now, one of the
perks of a treasure hunt like this one is finding camaraderie at very turn.
Appreciation is contagious among music lovers.
In a different rugged land, we
meet more extraordinary talent at a festival in Telemark, Norway, a few
hours south of Oslo. A breathtaking drive takes us past jagged landscapes
and historic sites. We drive ‘til we reached Sauherad, a village adorned
with fruit trees and two 12th century stone churches. It’s an
ideal backdrop for enjoying traditional Norwegian music.
We’re guests at
Evju
Bygdetun, an 18th century farm house
that’s still a working farm. Until the end of the 18th century,
this farm was owned by a noble Icelandic family that included a few royal
knights. The
traditional costumes
are rather ‘regal’ looking, but so far no shining armor in sight.
Keeping the past alive is the mission of Evju Bygdetun, the region’s
cultural center. We peek into authentic, restored cottages, admire
collections of silver and crystal, and say a word to the goats and chickens.
But once they bring on the feast and a
Hardanger fiddle
you’re in the presence of a traditional Norwegian dinner.
The Hardanger fiddle is like a violin and one of the few European folk music
traditions to survive nearly unchanged. Each instrument is handmade and
decorated, often with mother-of-pearl inlay. Amazing. Four or five
sympathetic strings underneath the fingerboard create echoing overtones.
Once you’ve heard this fiddle you’ll always recognize the melody and drone
of the Hardanger. Music like this makes you part of a community. You have to
participate, even if it’s just to tap your foot to the beat.
TIP
For more on Norwegian folk music, go to
www.norway.org.uk/culture.
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM,
Brussels
And you’ll keep your foot
tapping at MIM in Brussels. Forget the stereotype of “silent” rooms. The
Musical
Instrument Museum—known
as MIM—holds
ancient, rare instruments from all over the world. MIM calls itself “a
museum of the new generation” as old instruments come alive at a touch and
the spaces resound with music! It’s interactive learning, where families,
students, children and performers can put on headphones, take tours, try out
multi-media tools and attend class. One of those unexpected finds,
MIM is Brussels’ music link to the public.
TIP
For a wealth of links about musical
instruments, visit
plato.acadiau.ca.
THE BANDOLETS,
France
Part of the joy of seeking out music in Europe is that, at times, you come
upon a jam session or a solo violinist quite unexpectedly. Or a trio that
breaks into song at a moment’s notice—when you’re riding a tram or hiking up
a mountain.
Like this group—Bandolets. For one thing, they need no instruments, only
their voices, their harmony and their trust in each other.
If you’re going to find a traveling acapella music troupe, it might as well
be in the French Pyrenees. One of the most popular regions in South France,
its capitol city is Toulouse, and its villages, forests and ski slopes
attract thousands of visitors year round. And you better believe, lots of
group singing goes on.
Bandolets sings about the history of the Pyrenees. After the Roman Empire
fell, the region faced one warring group after another. Today’s recreations
of medieval jousts reflect the struggles with the Visigoths, the Franks, and
the Basque, to name just a few. Life’s hardships are exactly the stuff of
traditional ballads!
TIP
Find out more about these traditional singers of the
Pyrenees at
www.pyrenees-pireneus.com
GARNDIFFAITH GLEEMEN CHOIR,
Wales
In the land of kinship and coalmines, “contagious” is the word for Welsh
music. In south Wales, in the town of Pontypool, the
Garndiffaith Gleemen Choir
carries on an age-old tradition of Welsh men singing their hearts out.
Often included in ballads about battles and conquests, or a crisis
underground, is a longing for home and loved ones. Wherever Welshmen gather,
in a pub or at church, they seem to break into song. Their legendary
reputation holds fast.
TIP
For a list of male voice choirs throughout Europe, go to
www.malevoicechoir.net.
DIOSCURI,
Sicily
In selecting the finale of our
musical tour, I can’t help myself. We’re heading back to Italy—way south in
Agrigento, Sicily. We’ve made a loop back to a long-standing group of
talented musicians who put their spin on traditional music, and who thrive
in a stunning setting, among the home of the ancient gods.
Dioscuri—the
folk band of Agrigento, Sicily—is named for the twin gods
Castor and Pollux, the Dioskouroi.
The Dioscuri represent, in their simplest form, the ever-changing cycle from
dark to light, and light to dark.
For more than 30 years, Dioscuri has been known for solo performance, choral
harmony, pure, acoustic music and—above all—virtuosity. . On these shores
Greeks fought Greeks, then came Roman, Spanish and French conquerors. Today
Dioscuri’s old songs keep alive the history, tradition and spirit of all
things Sicilian.
Sicily’s south coast is home to the ruins of a 5th Century Greek
city—known as the Valley of the Temples. Despite its warring past, today
Agrigento seems idyllic, even spectacular. Here we wander through remnants
of historic temples, houses and streets, near the dramatic coastline,
imagining life in an ancient society. Despite countless conquests,
Sicily—the crossroads of the Mediterranean—remains fiercely independent and
proud of its heritage.
TIP
Need some help finding Italian Folk bands? Go to
www.italianfolkmusic.com.
And so, we’ve seen how great music can make for great travel. What better
way to feel the mood and spirit of a place?
Even that skeptic philosopher Nietzsche said, “Without music life would be a
mistake.” But it’s never a mistake to build a theme trip to Europe—start
with something you love, and find it everywhere. As for me—I’m off to my
lessons on the guitar, the eulinn pipes, and the hardanger fiddle. Catch my
debut. I’m Rudy Maxa, and I’ll see you next time on “Smart Travels.”
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Interested in planning your vacation to Europe? Start your trip at Expedia.com/ Europe. |